As mentioned earlier, the air cylinder I chose for the torso is a 10" air cylinder that is overall about the same length as this 12" spring, making them perfectly compatible for actuation and return. The spring came from Home Depot and the air cylinder is a Bimba brand as mentioned purchased from surplus. Here is a close up look at both. Here is the double clevis mount we saw in the last set of pictures again. It is made from chopping one surface off of a 5" long section that is now 1 1/2" high and 1 1/2" wide. The two pivot pins are spaced away from each other 2 3/4" with the first hole on the bottom (for the air cylinder connection) is 1/2" away from the end. This will then place the cylinder in a perfectly horizontal position when not engaged if the clevis is raised 1/2" above the raised floor of the seat box. This will be mounted to the front of the box on center. Remember to countersink the bolt nuts on the outside of this connection, as the front of the seat box needs to be flush so we can mount our decorative aluminum diamondplate over it. Once again we are placing rubber washers underneath the clevis bracket to insolate the concussion from the wood. Here is a view inside the seat box from both sides of the chair with the raised floor of course being the front. The cylinder I wound up using turned out to be a two way that I used an adjustable muffler on the unused port. You can see it in the photo (below, right) where the black arrow is pointing. You can dial how fast the air cylinder will respond to your air input on the other end using these. Without anything there at all, your actuation would only be effected by the air pressure used, gravity and weight. With it you could cause your crybaby to lean forward very very slowly if you choose, regardless of the amount of air pressure you are working with. You can't buy these at the hardware store! You will likely need to go to your local industrial supply to find the. I wound up at King Bearing where I get some replacement parts to my stationary tools in my woodworking plant. 

   Next we need to set up a place for our powered computer speaker for the voice of our whimpering sissy. I tossed in some walls under the front of the seat where the floor was raised up to keep mine from migrating side to side and then I coated the cavity with contact cement. The pieces of foam you see on the right is carpet padding that you can always get as much of as you want for free from behind carpet retailers (at least in my area). This roll was new, unused foam that they must have purchased excess of for the last installation job they did. I coated this with cement as well and glued them inside the speaker cove to insulate it from the concussion and vibrations of the mechanisms. To hold it in place I used two narrow straps of aluminum bent to the curve of the speaker face and then screwed the right angle ends to the seat box. Make sure to install this AFTER you finish your chair but BEFORE you install your fog pipe through the chair like I didn't do. Make sure you drill holes in the floor of the seat box that is directly above your speaker's inputs for power and sound at this point as well, otherwise you will be making up new curse words when you go to hook up the finished product. Hindsight isn't just 20 / 20, it's cocky about it.