Chat List Topic Archives

 For a how-to on a 110V system see Motion Trigger.

 Subject:
Re: animatronics-reply
Date:
Sat, 15 Mar 1997 19:55:46 -0600 (CST)
From:
John Dolan

John Dolan wrote:

>
> Wil, here are some sites that may have some answers to your questions:
> Home Haunts: (did you see the pictures of the home haunts on Don's
> page a.k.a. the archives?).Here's another:
> http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/2007/haunts.html
> For help on lighting the eyes of your hissing werewolf check out the
> electrical diagcylinder on Doug's "Floating Ghost".You can find this
> in the archives or at Doug's site:
> http://members.aol.com/phanmech/index.html
> (You can also find pictures of air/solenoid set up under "Trash Can
> Trauma" at these two sites)
> For pictures of a completed "Axworthy Floating Ghost" check our Bob
> Andrews homepage at:
> http://www.anaserve.com/~BoBandrews
> Bob also has pictures of his home haunt on this site with a cemetary set
> that beats just about any commercial haunt I've seen.
> As for your mechanized jaws question,that is part of a current thread that
> was started earlier in the week so stay tuned.
> Hope this is enough to get you started.
> JD
> jdolan@titan.iwu.edu
> ps- thanks David for the tips on the electronic books
 

 
 Subject: 
X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date: 
Thu, 24 Apr 1997 22:39:00 -0700
From: 
Death Lord
Reply-To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
 
 
Heloo.
 
It's twenty-question-kid again. 
 
I hate to bother you with this, but through fruitless net search and
checking with the local Home Base and Radio Shark, I am left empty
headed once again. May I humbly ask of all of you the nuances between
the 555's, X-10, midi vs hand-control. I have read the archives about
these and to be honest, I have gotten the most hope from X-10 for timed
event-controllability. I thought the list would be perfect to tap for
this info. 
 
I am getting ready to take the next step in automation and didn't want
to jump untill I really had some comparative knowledge between the big
four choices. What do you all choose for event control?
 
Wil
-- 
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.
 
The Death Lord
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
 


Subject: 
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date: 
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 09:48:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: 
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
 
 
In a message dated 97-04-25 06:49:17 EDT, you write:
 
<< A 555 is a tiny chip which lots of people sell. With several cheap
 parts, a time delay or an oscillator can be builkt for under $5. It can
 work as an LED flasher, relay driver, all sorts of things.
>
-------------------------------------------------
 
 
Jerrys input:
 
If you want to spend a little more for PNP.
I use a time relay and a normal relay togather to provide a
delay off. The time relay can be set for 0.5 to 1000
seconds. 
 
These time relay can cost as little as $5 if you get them
surplus...
 
Jerry
 


 

Subject:
X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 11:53:08 -0700
From:
Wil
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


I am as you know, researching the options of event time controllers and
wondered if anyone on the list has info on the computer software that
runs the X-10 system. The local Radio Shark can't even get this info! If
I could find an on-line source, that would make all of this much
easier--as long as they would offer info on the system's particulars.

Thanks,

--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 Topic Archives-
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
RE: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 16:22:22 -0400
From:
dallan@dow.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:



Try this site:
http://www.techmall.com/smarthome/index.html
David


Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 13:43:00 -0700
From:
david c schwend
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Wil wrote:
> If
> I could find an on-line source, that would make all of this much
> easier--as long as they would offer info on the system's particulars.
>

Here's a copy of the post I made awhile back ...

You might want to look over some of these Home Automation links. There
are several computer control interfaces for X-10 products that control
lights, motors and dry contacts. Some even allow timed macros (If this,
then do this, then this, then this, etc). Your guide can even carry a
wireless controller to initiate the macros, one at a time, as the tour
enters each room. X-10 devices communicate over the house powerlines so
you can communicate with any outlet or light fixture in your house.
Devices made by others that "speak X-10" include IR motion detectors and
sprinkler controllers. Radio Shack has a few of the more common modules
for sale under their brand name.

Enhancing Your Lifestyle with Home Automation
http://www.electronichouse.com/

Home Automation for Do-It-Yourselfers
http://www.pophome.com/

Home Automation Product Guide
http://www.asihome.com/guide.html

Home Automation Systems
http://smarthome.com/smarthome/hajump.htm

Home Automator Newsletter Home Page
http://www.automator.com/

X-10 Home Page
http://www.x10.com/

There is software information in most of these sites, a few offer
developers kits with cheap computer interfaces. I've been trying out
the X-10 Home Commander ($85 at Fry's). It comes with software to do
macros that will allow a programed sequence of events from one contact
closure. Most of my house (not the haunted one) is X-10 controled. It
turns on the outdoor lights (Christmas Lights in season), makes the
house look lived in when I'm out late, and turns off anything I forget
to do myself. When I need to get up before the sun, I have it turn on
the lights about 5 minutes before I get up. Makes it much easier on
those cold, dark mornings.



Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 16:55:28 -0700
From:
Scott Axworthy
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Wil wrote:
>
> I am as you know, researching the options of event time controllers and
> wondered if anyone on the list has info on the computer software that
> runs the X-10 system. The local Radio Shark can't even get this info! If
> I could find an on-line source, that would make all of this much
> easier--as long as they would offer info on the system's particulars.
>

Bruce Christensen, a one time chatlist list member (maybe he's
still lurking, I'm not sure) at posted a message about a DOS
program called XA that he authored for controlling X10. He was
specifically trying to control lighting and events for Halloween
and Xmas. I was trying out this software last Halloween and
had some success controlling fog and lights. The software is
shareware and costs around $45 I believe. (If your out there
Bruce, I'll really buy it this year.)

The software seemed a bit buggy when I got into heavy scripting
but I liked the results. My main gripe is with the ssslloowwwness
of the X10 protocol and the one-way nature of it. You never know
if you actually triggered something (or more importantly in some
cases, triggered somethings to turn off.)

Here is the last reference I had on where to find it:

ftp://oak.oakland.edu/SimTel/msdos/x_10/x10xa300.zip

This was from a post in 1995 so I don't know if it is there still.
A quick search in your favorite web search engine looking for
X10 might turn up a link.

-Scott


Subject:
RE: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D
Date:
Sat, 26 Apr 1997 12:13:46 -0700
From:
Ryan C
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
"'chatlist@netcom.com'"


Hello,
Long time since I last posted...
I have the shareware XA software for the X-10 controllers. Those who want
it please e-mail me directly so that I don't add a large file to download
on the list. The software is really nice. It allows input from the
joystick port and has a basic scripting language that allows you to run
outside programs; such as a sound player. If you look at the scripts that
come with it you can see the creator connected the computer to a door bell
so that a sound play and lights came on with the push of the button.
 Speaking of which, does anyone know how to do this. I don't know anything
about electronics, and was wondering if anyone has tried this. Also goes
anyone know if there is a way to connect a motion detector from a porch
light to the computer to do the same type of thing? Thanks for the help in
advance.

Ryan C
The Unofficial Disneyland Home Page
http://www.ioc.net/~ccnet/disney.html

Maynard Home Page
http://www.ioc.net/~ccnet/disneyland/maynard/maynard.html

"Eat figs not worms" commented Maynard.

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Schwab [SMTP:gschwab@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, April 25, 1997 9:30 PM
To: chatlist@netcom.com
Subject: Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D

> Bruce Christensen, a one time chatlist list member (maybe he's
> still lurking, I'm not sure) at posted a message about a DOS
> program called XA that he authored for controlling X10. He was
> specifically trying to control lighting and events for Halloween
> and Xmas. I was trying out this software last Halloween and
> had some success controlling fog and lights. The software is
> shareware and costs around $45 I believe. (If your out there
> Bruce, I'll really buy it this year.)

I'm also interested in X-10 control for Halloween and Xmas, if you find
out anything about this software, please let me know.

 
Subject: 
X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date: 
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 03:50:58 -0700
From: 
htraver@dreamsys.com
Reply-To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
 
 
Wil, there are many ways to go for event control. I'm back from a
bachelor party, so my brain is floating tonight, but let me go for
things....
 
A 555 is a tiny chip which lots of people sell. With several cheap
parts, a time delay or an oscillator can be builkt for under $5. It can
work as an LED flasher, relay driver, all sorts of things.
 
X10 is a controller system which uses the 120 volt power lines to carry
the information to the various boxes. Each control box receives codes
from a master station. The master station can be a computer peripheral
card, which controls it. at least on the Apple ][ version, the
programming is in Basic, allowing you to do any darned thing you please
with the timing loops.
 
Midi is a musical interface system which can also be used to control
special effects. The cables can run long and are fairly cheap to get. I
use Midi at home to compose music by.
 
hand control gives someone a pushbutton or a door mat or something to
trigger an event. I remember using an old doorbell to activate the
"Krash Koaster" stunt at Chamber of Horrors in Anaheim. This unit was
about 11 feet tall, 20 feet long and had a 2 foot long car. When I would
press the button, the car would get yanked down a chain at high speed
towards the guests emerging from a pitch black maze. The front of the
Krash Koaster had a blinding light and a haze fogger so you barely saw
it coming until it had a tremendous crash right in front of you. Great
leadin to the circus room.
 
For future event control, I have been working on a program which would
provide event control. It is designed around the Apple ][ computer and
uses a stored sequence to control a room event, special effect,
robotics, whatever. The advantage is very low cost, a nice versatility
and it does darn near anything I want. The biggest modification to it is
to network it to a whole bunch of them, each taking data from the net.
Each seqeuncer can then control the lighting from a central computer, or
sounds or soundtracks. Now,m to just get the #!$#^$ network working
right....
 
Harry "where am I?" Traver
 
[ Sent From: Dreamscape Systems - dreamsys.com ]
[ Location: Van Nuys, CA - (818) 781-7529 ] 
 
 

 




Subject:
Re: $12.00 Big Screen Neighborhood Theatre and Cabaret
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 07:23:11 -0700
From:
Death Lord
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


htraver@dreamsys.com wrote:
>
> Death Lord, the only closest place to me that mnight have something in a
> projection TV is an electronic junkyard type of place. ECSC in Gardena
> is one such place. All sorts of surplus electronics there....
>
> Harry
>
> [ Sent From: Dreamscape Systems - dreamsys.com ]
> [ Location: Van Nuys, CA - (818) 781-7529 ]

I am going to look into this projection tv lens today. Thanks.
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.

The Death Lord
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
Re: $12.00 Big Screen Neighborhood Theatre and Cabaret
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 15:27:57 -0500
From:
JB Corn
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
JBC Productions
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1 , 2 , 3


Brian Rich wrote:
>
> Death Lord wrote:
>
> > This brings back up the subject of the $12.00 projection TV lens, which
> > was never covered in full. The one question left hanging was; Did this
> > lens offer the ability to project a large (four or six foot square)
> > picture?Very likely, yes. I have one of these lenses, and have projected
large images onto a wall. But you must keep in mind that the projection TVs
that these lenses are a part of have super bright CRTs (picture tubes). So
crank the brightness way up and keep the ambient light out of the area.
Kathy- is the front of your house a dark place?
> --
> Brian Wesley Rich
> -------------------------------------------------
> Visit my amateur science page.
> Chemicals, sample experiments, and good ideas!
> http://www.west.net/~science/
Hi Brian,
The limitation is the focal length of the lens in relationship to the
screen, (most will project 6' diagonal), the condition of the TV screen,
and how bright you can adjust the screen. Using brightness and contrast
controls to turn the image up. Also, the room projecting from must be
totally light tight, any light leak will decrease projection intensity.
jbcorn




From:
Death Lord
To:
wil@wilschock.com


Heloo.

It's twenty-question-kid again.

I hate to bother you with this, but through fruitless net search and
checking with the local Home Base and Radio Shark, I am left empty
headed once again. May I humbly ask of all of you the nuances between
the 555's, X-10, midi vs hand-control. I have read the archives about
these and to be honest, I have gotten the most hope from X-10 for timed
event-controllability. I thought the list would be perfect to tap for
this info.

I am getting ready to take the next step in automation and didn't want
to jump untill I really had some comparative knowledge between the big
four choices. What do you all choose for event control?

Wil
--
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.

The Death Lord
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 10:37:21 -0700
From:
Wil
To:
wil@wilschock.com


Subject: 
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date: 
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 09:48:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: 
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
To: 
chatlist@netcom.com
 
 
In a message dated 97-04-25 06:49:17 EDT, you write:
 
<< A 555 is a tiny chip which lots of people sell. With several cheap
 parts, a time delay or an oscillator can be builkt for under $5. It can
 work as an LED flasher, relay driver, all sorts of things.
>
-------------------------------------------------
 
 
Jerrys input:
 
If you want to spend a little more for PNP.
I use a time relay and a normal relay togather to provide a
delay off. The time relay can be set for 0.5 to 1000
seconds. 
 
These time relay can cost as little as $5 if you get them
surplus...
 
Jerry



Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Fri, 25 Apr 1997 15:34:49 -0500
From:
JB Corn
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
JBC Productions
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1


Death Lord wrote:
>
> Heloo.
>
> It's twenty-question-kid again.
>
> I hate to bother you with this, but through fruitless net search and
> checking with the local Home Base and Radio Shark, I am left empty
> headed once again. May I humbly ask of all of you the nuances between
> the 555's, X-10, midi vs hand-control. I have read the archives about
> these and to be honest, I have gotten the most hope from X-10 for timed
> event-controllability. I thought the list would be perfect to tap for
> this info.
>
> I am getting ready to take the next step in automation and didn't want
> to jump untill I really had some comparative knowledge between the big
> four choices. What do you all choose for event control?
>
> Wil
> --
> X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
> Rest In Pieces.
>
> The Death Lord
> http://www.creepcrafters.com
> X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Hi Wil,
My first choice is actors/techs. Automation has its pluses and
minuses. For an entertainment type display automation is great, for
providing a good distraction they are great for scaring people over the
age of six, forget it. The actual moment a scare is initiated is
difficult. All of us that work at scaring people know that some actors
make great door stops and lousy scarers(?).
I use automation to entertain. I use remote controled camera monitored
effects to scare. ie. I have an entertaining display, a camera aimed at
the customer entry area, and an operator waiting for the customer to
look in the correct place. The operator initiates the scare sequence.
An operator can easily operate four such sequences during crank thru, 8
or more when things are slow. B&W security camera systems are available
for less than $200 with additional cameras around $100. Each one of
these systems will ahndle four cameras.
jbcorn


Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
26 Apr 97 08:47:04 -0600
From:
CATHY.KELLER@48.ima.infomail.com (CATHY KELLER)
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
Austin InfoMail Association - Austin, Texas
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


Hello JB!

In a message to Cathy Keller <04/26/97> Jb Corn wrote:

JC> An actor rushes the curtain and pushes it up against the
JC> cells bars while making a loud sound. Customers are scared
JC> by a curtain and a sound because of the entertaining
JC> distraction in the previous room. Copyright 1997, By JB Corn
JC> If I am too wordy tell me now, because once I get started
JC> its hard to shut me up, he he he *LOL*

After keeping me spellbound reading that, there's no WAY you get
to shut up NOW!!!

--- Platinum Xpress/Wildcat! v1.3
--
| Fidonet: CATHY KELLER 1:382/48
|Internet: CATHY.KELLER@48.ima.infomail.com
|
|Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly their own.

Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Sat, 26 Apr 1997 13:19:20 -0500
From:
JB Corn
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
JBC Productions
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1


CATHY KELLER wrote:
>
> Hello JB!
>
> In a message to Cathy Keller <04/26/97> Jb Corn wrote:
>
> JC> An actor rushes the curtain and pushes it up against the
> JC> cells bars while making a loud sound. Customers are scared
> JC> by a curtain and a sound because of the entertaining
> JC> distraction in the previous room. Copyright 1997, By JB Corn
> JC> If I am too wordy tell me now, because once I get started
> JC> its hard to shut me up, he he he *LOL*
>
> After keeping me spellbound reading that, there's no WAY you get
> to shut up NOW!!!
>
> --- Platinum Xpress/Wildcat! v1.3
> --
> | Fidonet: CATHY KELLER 1:382/48
> |Internet: CATHY.KELLER@48.ima.infomail.com
> |
> |Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly their own.
Why thankyou, be careful what you ask for. Any particular topic
intrests you?
jbcorn

Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Sat, 26 Apr 1997 16:07:31 -0500
From:
JB Corn
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
JBC Productions
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1 , 2


> > After keeping me spellbound reading that, there's no WAY you get
> > to shut up NOW!!!
ACTORS

I have been producing haunted houses since 1979. No matter how
creative I think I am; I am never prepared for what my actors will do
with my creation. Sometimes they improve upon my work and make me look
good. More likely than not they make me look foolish and trash
carefully prepared scenes.
No matter actors age they must be treated like children. In reality,
they are children. The power an individual obtains when they become
someone else is nothing less than absolute. Absolute power corrupts
absolutely. As a haunt's creator, it is easy to be wrapped up in your
favorite room and enjoy plying your annual trade upon hapless victims
(customers). I am no different. However, may I offer a change. I do
my thing on the slow nights and for a short time on the busy ones. Then
I step back and become the creative director. I monitor all scenes,
travel through the attraction as a customer, constantly give direction
and make DAMN sure all my talent know that I am watching them.
OK, as the creative director I have already trained all my actors and
technicians. I have explained each individuals duties and any
variations that are allowed. I have explained what to do in the event
of an emergency, how to handle customers that really should have gone to
Boo at the Zoo (not only children) and how to notify internal security
about rowdy customers. I have left no stone unturned.
HA!!! Well, all of you that believe that, I have some invisible paint
for sale, just $99 per pint. I have identified the problem. After all
these years one would think I might have learned something. It is the
power of the mask and even elaborate make-up can have a similar effect.
Once a persons true identity is concealed, they can and often do become
God like, "I can do no wrong" "…and if by chance I do, no one will know
its me, he he he " I had a friend relate an incident to me.
All his actors wear masks in his attraction. A select few decided to
grope attractive females. The first time a female complained he shut
the attraction down, brought all his actors out and the female easily
selected her attacker, who was fired. An actor in the select group
learned from this. The next time he traded masks with another actor,
who promptly turned him in when the victim pointed his way. Again the
select actor group learned. This time the culprit brings a mask to wear
for groping and a mask to wear when in review. Eventually this actor
was caught and fired.
I am an x-Marine and in fairly good shape. I explain to my actors that
if I ever see them touch a customer, the least of their problems is
going to jail, because a trip to the hospital will take precedence. I
do not count reflex response. That is when a customer is so scared that
they lash out and accidentally make contact with one or more of my
actors: or when an actor gets carried away, looses balance or missteps
and bumps into a customer.
It is important to note that masks do more than give actors’ power,
they also give certain customers’ power. Because an actor will do
things he/she never thought possible, a customer may do the same. An
actor in a mask is no longer human, has no identity and as such will
become a target. Certain customer types will hit masked actors.
Especially those that stand still like dummies. The customer will say "
Hey, I thought it was a dummy, I didn’t know it was a person" Which of
course is a lie, the customer was looking for an out. His goal was to
hit an actor and get away with it.
Increased security has no effect on this problem. The solution is
simple. Starting in 1992 I began to limit the use of masks and for the
most part masks were used on dummies. I did not go to elaborate
make-up. Instead I created scenes for people. My technique is more
complicated than can be explained here, but I am playing with your mind
and senses from the time you enter to the time you exit. Alfred
Hitchcock is my style. Another article will cover the human senses and
how most haunts ignore them. I use limited make-up to enhance a face,
like a touch of red, for blood, a light base of white and some black.
The actors’ face is visible and the person recognizable.
What I have added more than makes up for any perceived loss. The most
important addition is eye contact and next facial expressions. Actor
training is more intense and not anyone can perform in my haunt.
Customers comment on how my actors make eye contact, look at them. I
train my actors to look at the customers, to use their eyes and facial
muscles to convey meaning. I entertain, previous article. You are
safest in rooms with my actors, not that they don’t nail more than half
the customers, the real scare comes in the corridors between rooms.
More planning is necessary. Your room/scene scripts become complicated
to the point of simplicity. What? Yes, the scenes are so simple that
it is now possible for your actors to become bored even quicker than
before. After all, they have to do the same thing over and over and
over and… I offer several variations for the actors to work with and I
have a reward system for actors to work their way up the privileged
scene ladder. The actors that have been with me the longest get first
choice. Once you have proven your worth I design a scene for you.
jbcorn

Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Sat, 26 Apr 1997 17:27:55 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


 In a message dated 97-04-26 05:58:30 EDT, you write:

<
Hi,
Not to disagree. But, I need to make sure I understand. I have been
startled by mechanical devices. I do not recall being scared by
mechanical devices, except as a child. I find a major difference
between a scare and a startle. A startle evokes a sudden rush and I
(customer) respond with some physical reaction. A scare evokes a
stronger emotion and physical reaction. Actually at this time I shall
jump firmly upon my soap box and deliver the following.
ENTERTAINMENT 4-20-97



< ...he cells bars while making a loud sound. Customers are scared by a
 curtain and a sound because of the entertaining distraction in the
 previous room. Copyright 1997, By JB Corn
 If I am too wordy tell me now, because once I get started its hard to
 shut me up, he he he *LOL*
>>
-----------------------------------------

Greetings your excellency Baron JBCorn [in respect to your honorary title...
:~> ]
 
A movie camera is a MECHANICAL device, Yet the "Exorcist" SCARED
me a great deal. Yes the device is "programmed" by artists and
talented actors, but so can MANY mechanical devices.
Its not the tool but the craftsman.
And the craftsman dose not have to be there to impress his audience
with his master piece...

Yours ghouly Jerry -


@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@
 
^v^ Esoteric Toys ^v^
(Creative, Not expensive solutions in special effects.)
(No one ever got anywhere by being NORMAL!)

 Web page: http://members.aol.com/Spookyfx/index.html

@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@


Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Sat, 26 Apr 1997 18:05:05 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-04-26 17:26:52 EDT, you write:

<< ......he customers, the real scare comes in the corridors between rooms.
More planning is necessary. Your room/scene scripts become complicated
 to the point of simplicity. What? Yes, the scenes are so simple that
 it is now possible for your actors to become bored even quicker than
 before. After all, they have to do the same thing over and over and
 over and… I offer several variations for the actors to work with and I
 have a reward system for actors to work their way up the privileged
 scene ladder. The actors that have been with me the longest get first
 choice. Once you have proven your worth I design a scene for you.
 jbcorn
 
>>
------------------------------------------------

Hi JBcorn

WOW!
This really impressed me.
I wish you had included this kind of
in depth info in your books. Are you planning a revision or a new book.
I think that this is the kind of info (based on experience) that serious
HH designers NEED.

jerry

Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:39:12 -0500
From:
JB Corn
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
JBC Productions
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
 
> The "mild" camp won out. But does anyone doubt that they could have made
> their “tools” and robots and automatic devices REALLY SCARY?
>
> Yours ghouly Jerry -

Hello Jerry,
My words. But applied a little misleadingly. I believe in air rams,
animatronics and computer controlled effects. I do not support the same
delivering the scare. I use an operator, human, to determine when to
deliver the scare, the rest is part of the set-up. Automatic scares
fail to deliver because they cannot take into account where the customer
is looking. Auto-scares are either in a sequence locked to electronic
controls or are triggered by a sensor. True you will scare some people,
but you will miss the majority, therefore these effects must be
entertaining. I was frightened as a child in the Haunted House at the
State Fair of Texas, it was a ride. The Disney Haunted Mansion does
scare people, usually young ones. I know adults that are scared of
their shadow.
In general excluding exceptions as noted animatronics are entertaining,
I am not moved to consider them otherwise. I have been playing at this
since 1966 and professionally since 1979. I am willing to travel to see
my view proven wrong and will admit to same in print should it happen.
jbcorn


>
> @ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@
>
> ^v^ Esoteric Toys ^v^
> (Creative, Not expensive solutions in special effects.)
> (No one ever got anywhere by being NORMAL!)
>
> Web page: http://members.aol.com/Spookyfx/index.html
>
> @ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@



Subject:
Re: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-job?
Date:
Mon, 28 Apr 1997 09:53:34 -0500
From:
JB Corn
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
JBC Productions
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-04-27 23:58:54 EDT, you write:
>
> << child in the Haunted House at the
> State Fair of Texas, it was a ride. The Disney Haunted Mansion does
> scare people, usually young ones. I know adults that are scared of
> their shadow.
> In general excluding exceptions as note >>
>
> Hi JBcorn
>
> You misunderstood.
>
> I guess it is not common knowledge but back when Disney
> was in the design phase of the HM,
> two camps argued of the "scare" rating that they would use.
>
> One camp thought that their customers would expect "Disney"
> to be the best HH ever! That would mean making it VERY
> SCARY!
>
> The other camp thought that it would not be good for families.
> The family camp won the debate.
>
> BUT had Disney decided to go the SCARY rout with
> their robots....
>
> are you saying they would have FAILED?
>
> I think the movie analogy is a great one. NO human
> is operating when the scare happen. It is a build up
> in a carefully planned automatic mechanical system.
> AND IT WORKS
>
> Maybe because you don’t believe in the devil,
> you only fear the human threat?
>
> Even so, The proper use of “TOM TOMS”
> and mechanical devise can work.
> I am bewildered that someone of you background
> is making such an all encompassing
> “absolute” statement that it is not possible.
> I believe “anything” is “possible”
>
> well....mostly...
>
> At least enough not to ignore a possible avenue..
>
> Again don’t misunderstand me, in my book I mention
> only one automatic device. Because it IS easier
> to do the effects with humans..
>
> I just don’t like closing doors for others just because
> I cant do it...
>
> I am in the martial arts and have had my students
> prove me wrong when I taught them something that
> they should NOT do because I could not do it.
> I try to say “it is less of a gamble to do it this way
> because I have the experience, but on you own time,
> try and use what WORKS for you.
>
> My heart tells me I am right about all my
> martial arts training, but my head knows that
> if I restrict them to only my way, no progress
> will accrue.
>
> If no progress occurs, than I will be right,
> my way WILL be the only way.
>
> Yours ghouly Jerry -
>
> @ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@
>
>
> ^v^ Esoteric Toys ^v^
> (Creative, Not expensive solutions in special effects.)
> (No one ever got anywhere by being NORMAL!)
>
> Web page: http://members.aol.com/Spookyfx/index.html
>
> @ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@
Hello Jerry,
I enjoy a good debate. OK ground rules, or parameters. There are those
that are afraid of their own shadows and those that are too macho to
admit to being frightened, these people are the exception. And children
under the age of 12, although I know some six year olds that have no
fear at all. For the sake of argument we'll say that I have eliminated
half the customer base. It is this customer base that I do not believe
can be scared by computer operated animatronics with no human input at
critical times.
I base this on tow things. One the thrill rides offered at amusement
parks and a haunt experiment by me in 1993.
The 1993 experiment. I operate my haunt the entire month of October,
every night, even though some nights we have no customers. This year I
was playing with many remote and operator effects during the first two
weeks. A customer group going thru the haunt saw only three scenes with
humans. The bulk of the scares were sounds, puppets/dummies and other
objects. YES we scared them, YES they reacted and screamed. At this
time, however, I was learning to entertain, and I knew what type of exit
comments I was looking for... those comments were not there, instead I
heard comments like "I think we just went thru the first automated
haunted house", "Did you see anybody?", "Where were the monsters?", etc.
Hmm, Could Disney have done it? I don't know, I challange anyone to
make a truly horrific haunt completely automated with no human input
during operation. On the other hand I do believe an automated haunt
could be very entertaining and scare half the customers, its the other
half I am after and I regurally nail the macho types with our style.
When one of this type falls in a group, the whole group comes apart, I
love it.
I am not against animatronics, I do not see it replacing actors in my
lifetime, And I will challenge any automated haunt to have the same
effect on customers as mine. And for the right amount of money wagered
I would set up next to one and eat its lunch. He He He
all in fun, jbcorn


Subject:
RE: X-10, Midi, 555, hand-controlled :-D
Date:
Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:42:53 -0700
From:
rleach@bigboy73.West.Sun.COM (Roy Leach)
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


< A little snip here...>
> If you look at the scripts that
> come with it you can see the creator connected the computer to a door bell
> so that a sound play and lights came on with the push of the button.
> Speaking of which, does anyone know how to do this. I don't know anything
> about electronics, and was wondering if anyone has tried this. Also goes
> anyone know if there is a way to connect a motion detector from a porch
> light to the computer to do the same type of thing? Thanks for the help in
> advance.
< A little snip there>

There was an article last year in Electronics Now called the Goblin Greeter.
It had full schematics on how to interface the effect to a doorbell. I'll
have to look at it again to refresh my memory as to how they did it. A simple
approach would be to hook a 24 volt (or are doorbells 12 volt, I always forget)
light bulb up in place of the doorbell itself. Wire a photodiode to the
trigger button inputs on your computer game port (across pins 1 & 2 for button
1). Place the photodiode in a dark box along with the light bulb. Voila,
opto-isolator. Now, just read the game port & watch for button 1.
WARNING!! WARNING!! WARNING!! I AM JUST HYPOTHOSIZING!! I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS
AND IT MAY DAMAGE YOUR COMPUTER! It shouldn't but it might. I have to do a
bit more research & try it out. What I am showing is that for simple inputs,
use your game ports.
roy.



ENTERED 5-29-97



Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi Vs. Hand-work
Date:
Tue, 27 May 1997 22:43:28 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3


> X-10 is never completely reliable since it is not a direct connection

> If you use them, just don't expect them to work perfectly every time.
> You will probably have more problems if you are also using other things
> light dimmers, motor speed controllers, color organs, or other devices
> that may not filter out some of the ringing they can put across the
> power lines. At least that's my experience. I still use them, but not
> with anything I want to work right everytime. Good Luck!!
>Carl


Carl, thank you for the terrific post. What invaluable information! Can
you possibly direct me to the hot setup? Or is there such a puppy? All
along I've thought that automating the events would be a given, and now
I'm wondering if it is even possible within normal budget dollars to
accomplish.

I am using two color organs at least in my displays this year, and that
could well increase. At least one or more motor speed controllers also.
Am I destined to somehow answer the door as the angel of Death at the
same time as I am operating six or eight scary goodies? Remember, I will
largely be running this show myself and need as much automation as
possible.

Wil
 
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.

The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi Vs. Hand-work
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 08:25:29 -0700
From:
Carl Cowley
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4


wil@wilschock.com wrote:
> you possibly direct me to the hot setup? Or is there such a puppy? All
> along I've thought that automating the events would be a given, and now
> I'm wondering if it is even possible within normal budget dollars to
> accomplish.
>

It all depends on what you are trying to do. Is each event related to
each other? Do they have to fire in a certain sequence or can each one
operate independent of each other. I haven't quite been able to tell
from reading some of the other posts about this. 

As others have mentioned, you can use a 555 timer to do a delayed off
fairly easily. You could easily build them to control a relay to make a
delayed off relay, but you could also use them to make a solid state (no
mechanical relay) delayed off circuit which is usually cheaper. However
the design is often a little different for controlling motors than it is
for lights. Also it makes a difference if you are controlling 12v DC
devices or 120v AC devices -- they are both about as easy to build, just
different.

I could probably (summer a little less hectic for me, but still pretty
busy) send you a sample circuit if you could provide a little more
detail about what is needed. I could even make some circuit boards (we
do have board production facilities here in the lab) for you so that you
could easily duplicate the circuits if your handy with a soldering iron.

Let me know if I can help - especially since I might be designing some
of these units for our schools haunted house (still just a maybe) this
coming fall.


Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi Vs. Hand-work
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 16:36:26 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5


Carl Cowley wrote:
>
> wil@wilschock.com wrote:
> > you possibly direct me to the hot setup? Or is there such a puppy? All
> > along I've thought that automating the events would be a given, and now
> > I'm wondering if it is even possible within normal budget dollars to
> > accomplish.
> >
>
> It all depends on what you are trying to do. Is each event related to
> each other? Do they have to fire in a certain sequence or can each one
> operate independent of each other. I haven't quite been able to tell
> from reading some of the other posts about this.


Each event stands alone. Thus far, the idea is to trigger 120V AC. In
general my events are routed to power strips so everything comes on at
once to that single event when power is triggered to the thing. The
Floating Ghost has a gear motor, a blacklight and tape player
plugged into the power strip. The Trash Can Trauma has a water pump
(120V) solenoid and a strobe light plugged to a power strip. The Pop Up
Ghosts will be water pump solenoids (one per ghost). The blast of air to
the face will once again be solenoid. Then there is the rotting corpse
in the coffin that I would like to have jump up bending at the waist
that will have at least a solenoid and perhaps a tape player also. The
fogger I'm going to run by hand. The floating pumpkin and candleabra
(sp?)will be permantantly on I think, but if not, that will be a gear
motor and 120V to both items for light bulbs. There will be lights that
will be triggered by sensors, but those can be adjusted to go out after
a short time naturally.


 
> As others have mentioned, you can use a 555 timer to do a delayed off
> fairly easily. You could easily build them to control a relay to make a
> delayed off relay, but you could also use them to make a solid state (no
> mechanical relay) delayed off circuit which is usually cheaper. However
> the design is often a little different for controlling motors than it is
> for lights. Also it makes a difference if you are controlling 12v DC
> devices or 120v AC devices -- they are both about as easy to build, just
> different.
>
> I could probably (summer a little less hectic for me, but still pretty
> busy) send you a sample circuit if you could provide a little more
> detail about what is needed. I could even make some circuit boards (we
> do have board production facilities here in the lab) for you so that you
> could easily duplicate the circuits if your handy with a soldering iron.
>
> Let me know if I can help - especially since I might be designing some
> of these units for our schools haunted house (still just a maybe) this
> coming fall.

I am eager to get set up with the right devices. What do you think I
will encounter as my largest hurdles everyone? Does this sound
reasonable, or should I rethink this? It seems so minor to me, but at
the same time, I don't have the answer.

Thanks for the post!
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 09:29:27 -0700
From:
david c schwend
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3


> > > >wil@wilschock.com wrote:

> > > >Then if I want to controll 10 things with the ECT, I would be better off
> > > >with computer?

> > > Jim Kadel wrote:

> > > Who knows, if any of us are "better off" with a computer? :>
> > >
> > > Actually with 10 (events) things, and I presume 10 separate sensing
> > > devices? you'd either need 10 ECT's [one ECT controls one sensor] - or
> > > use programmed control (computer or PLC) for everything.
> > >
> > > Are you certain that you'd need ALL of your events protected by an
> > > ECT? Perhaps, applying it only to the necessary ones, you'd only need
> > > two or three? Also, if more than one event is triggered by the SAME
> > > sensor, all these events are
> > > protected by the SAME ECT.

> > wil@wilschock.com wrote:

> > Eeeewwe. I plan to have a TCT, FG, PUG, Grave Jumper kinda thingie,
> > perhaps bats, all timed through sensor triggers. I was under the
> > illusion that the 555 controlled up to like 16 things with separate time
> > durations. Perhaps I need to turn my focus back on the X-10 system. I
> > was recommended by a good source to avoid the X-10 because the triggers
> > may step on each other with too many events being controlled by the
> > computer. However, it may be that in a home environment I may be
> > perfectly safe investing this way. I would really like to hear from
> > everyone that considers their knowlege in X-10 in-depth enough to either
> > recommend or dissuade my use of them. I doubt I will ever need much more
> > than 8 or a dozen controlled events even if I went altogether psyco with
> > my decorations. ;~> (oops, too late)
> >
> > So please chime in! Is X-10 good for a home haunt of this size?

> Carl Cowley wrote:

> X-10 is never completely reliable since it is not a direct connection
> and has no feedback to the controller. It MOST cases they work pretty
> well, but if you are triggering a bunch of things at once then it is
> possible for the units to send walk over each other and cause the
> command to turn on or off the unit to be destroyed. I worked for a guy
> one summer who was trying to turn his house into a museum that was that
> was completely automated (tv's and screens dropping from the ceiling,
> lights going on and off in certain sequences, shades on the windows goin
> up and down according to how bright it was outside and what season of
> the year it was, etc.). We had all kind of problems. He even had an
> electrician come in and rewire his entire house with X-10 units mounted
> up in the attic. The problems never were completely overcome, but that
> was what he wanted to use so....
>
> If you use them, just don't expect them to work perfectly every time.
> You will probably have more problems if you are also using other things
> light dimmers, motor speed controllers, color organs, or other devices
> that may not filter out some of the ringing they can put across the
> power lines. At least that's my experience. I still use them, but not
> with anything I want to work right everytime. Good Luck!!

I first used X-10 in the late 70's to remotely control audio visual and
lighting in a conference center auditorium. At first, we had some
difficulty, until I figured out where my problems were. Devices like
solid state dimmer switches or other devices that use Triacs and SCRs
(Silicon Controlled rectifiers) to control large 120 volt loads create
noise on the power line. The X-10 signal got buried in the noise. The
X-10 controllers worked perfectly when the stage light dimmers were full
on or full off.

My home is now extensively X-10 equipped. Through experience I have
discovered that powerstrips with surge suppressors block X-10 commands.
Refridgerator motors and other power line "noisy" equipment can also
affect reliability. Sometimes it is enough to just separate the X-10
device and the noisy device in different outlets a few wire feet apart.
In a powerline quiet environment I have been able to use X-10 to control
devices in other buildings, provided they are connected to the same
electric company distribution transformer.

As far as multiple commands walking over each other, I've never
experienced that problem. My X-10 is controlled manually or by a single
computer. I can only enter one command at a time, and the computer only
enters one command at a time. We (the computer and I) have never, to
date, interferred with each other.

In a Dark Attraction, the only problem I have encountered with X-10 is
that the sending and receiving of commands has about a one to two second
delay. I have not made extensive use of X-10 for automation, but I have
used it to electrically separate the actors from the effects. (Low
voltage contact closure activates 120 VAC effects.) I have also used
X-10 to control lights and devices that were not easy to get to.


Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 16:54:46 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4


> In a Dark Attraction, the only problem I have encountered with X-10 is
> that the sending and receiving of commands has about a one to two second
> delay. 

Just for clarity sake, does that mean if a victim steps on the
pressure-sensitive mat and triggers the device, it takes the computer
one or two seconds to get the signal to the event, which would then
honk, squirt, snort, etc.? Or do I have this wrong?


Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 07:43:11 -0700
From:
david c schwend
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5


wil@wilschock.com wrote:
>
> > In a Dark Attraction, the only problem I have encountered with X-10 is
> > that the sending and receiving of commands has about a one to two second
> > delay.
>
> Just for clarity sake, does that mean if a victim steps on the
> pressure-sensitive mat and triggers the device, it takes the computer
> one or two seconds to get the signal to the event, which would then
> honk, squirt, snort, etc.? Or do I have this wrong?
>
> Wil
> X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
> Rest In Pieces
> Death Lord
> '97 chatlist Topic Archives;
> http://www.creepcrafters.com
> X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


You are correct.

Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi
Date:
Tue, 27 May 1997 22:52:45 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


>
> The 555 is a timer chip, costing about 80 cents at radio shack. It can
> be set up as a time delay or as a repeating pulse or as a pulse
> stretcher, debouncing switches. There are hobby books on how to use this
> chip.
>
> if you have no expereince in circuit stuph, go for the X10 and get a
> program on your computer to control the modules. That will prove to be
> the easiest way for now.....
>
> Harry
>

Thanks very much Harry. Do you forsee problems arising from the color
organs and number of events such as just posted? Since I am totally
novice at this, you must assume I don't even know if 115V direct is
going to work out for me. I want to use direct juice, but 12V has been
touted so much.... But, of course, 115V is already the medium. If I
could buy a book that would offer the total solution for $150 to $200 in
hard and soft ware, I would be happy as, well, a saddist watching my
neighbors faint!

;~F''''

Wil 
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces.

The Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
X-10, my 2c (long) was:555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 08:25:50 +0000
From:
CTMartin
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


htraver@dreamsys.com wrote:
>......go for the X10 and get a program on your computer
> to control the modules. That will prove to be
> the easiest way for now.....
>

Ive had quite a bit of experience with X-10, and the two biggest
problems are line noise/signal strength and delay time.
Line Noise/Signal Strength - is due to the very long runs of
(unshielded) electrical wiring the signal travels on, and other
electrically noisy devices on the circuit. This causes electrical line
noise that overwhelms the small X-10 signal. Intermittent or unreliable
action of the X-10 device is the result of this problem. Turn off all
motors/compressors/fluorescent devices and test. If it works, that's
the problem. X-10 and third parties make filters to plug
motor/compressor/fluorescent devices into that will dramatically improve
the triggering reliability. There are line signal strength testers
available, too.
Also, normal 220 power fed into a house is split into two independent
circuits. Often a sender is on one circuit and the receiver is on
another circuit. How to tell if this is the problem is by moving the
sender to another outlet. If it works, that's the problem. Again, X-10
makes a 'bridging' device that will send/filter the X-10 signal across
the two circuits.
Delay Time - is caused by the X-10 communications protocol itself. In
order to support 256 devices with 16 levels of dimming (for dimmable
devices) it takes about 1 second to send a message and activate a
device. If you are trying to trigger several devices at the same time,
it may take several seconds to activate all the devices. This delay is
a feature of the X-10 system. To accomodate the delay, simply adjust
your timers to send the signal earlier, or place the triggering device a
bit further ahead of where it would normally be placed. A bit of
testing will give you the idea.
If triggering reliability is a major issue, simply send the same message
twice, or three times. Timing may suffer, but the device has a far
better chance to respond. Duplicate on/off signals are ignored, but
dimming signals are cumulative.
Ive been using a microcontrolller and several manual controllers to run
over 60 X-10 devices in my house for over 8 years, and to run my
halloween yard displays, and a few items in my haunt. All with good,
reliable success. Some of my modules are over 8 years old and still do
the job - reliabily.
The biggest advantages to using X-10 are: you can get replacement parts
almost everywhere, the modules are cheap, its easy to understand and
setup, and there are modules designed to do almost anything.
BTW- X-10 *is* a two-way protocol, its just that only third-parties have
produced (expensive) products. Recently, X-10 has begun shipping a line
of two-way devices. They're a bit more expensive than regular X-10, but
it does add a bit of reliability.
Whew! its time to stop babbling ;)
Cliff

Subject:
PC/relay control card
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 04:49:51 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-05-28 01:23:23 EDT, you write:

<<
 This card then can drive PCL daughter boards or your own that carry relays.
 
 They also have a 144 port input/output digital card that is interrupt
driven,
 that runs for $275.
 
 I bought mine three years ago, and works like a charm. The relays I have
 are rated at 240V 5Amp and don't even get warm with heavy usage.
 
 Easy as cake^H^H^H^Hpie... :)
>>

jerry asks:
Dose it come with software?
Do you need to know programming to use it?
jerry


Subject:
555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 04:55:16 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-05-28 01:26:48 EDT, you write:

<<
 The 555 is a timer chip, costing about 80 cents at radio shack. It can
 be set up as a time delay or as a repeating pulse or as a pulse
 stretcher, debouncing switches. There are hobby books on how to use this
 chip.
>>

Is there anyone willing to build one and sell it to me!
(I will pay for parts plus labor plus shipping)
I am MUCH better at duplicating and redesigning
 circuits when I have one to work with.
I normaly use a timer relay (delay off) to keep my
"robots" from refireing. But it costs $20 to $30

jerry


Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 07:47:21 -0500
From:
milwiron@btprod.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


At 04:55 AM 5/28/97 -0400, you wrote:

>Is there anyone willing to build one and sell it to me!
>(I will pay for parts plus labor plus shipping)
>I am MUCH better at duplicating and redesigning
> circuits when I have one to work with.
>I normaly use a timer relay (delay off) to keep my
>"robots" from refireing. But it costs $20 to $30
>jerry

Holey Schmoley Jerry, go to Radio Shack and get the booklets by Forrest Mims
on 555 Timer Circuits and Basic Semiconductor Circuits. 555 timers with
relays and capacitor & resistor timers with relays are so simple even I can
build them.
Denny


Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 11:40:19 -0700
From:
Michael Marcrum
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


> Holey Schmoley Jerry, go to Radio Shack and get the booklets by Forrest Mims
> on 555 Timer Circuits and Basic Semiconductor Circuits. 555 timers with
> relays and capacitor & resistor timers with relays are so simple even I can
> build them.
> Denny

Denny,
 Mike has been dying to try to run our tricks by computer. So if I go to
Radio Hell and get these books it would be a good start for him? He has
a bunch of older computers around and he is saving them for just this
purpose. What little parts should I purchase so he can start playing?
thanks for the help
Kathy
the new kid on the crpyt
mmarcrum@ix.netcom.com


Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 08:31:53 -0700
From:
Carl Cowley
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-05-28 01:26:48 EDT, you write:
>
> <<
> The 555 is a timer chip, costing about 80 cents at radio shack. It can
> be set up as a time delay or as a repeating pulse or as a pulse
> stretcher, debouncing switches. There are hobby books on how to use this
> chip.
> >>
>
> Is there anyone willing to build one and sell it to me!
> (I will pay for parts plus labor plus shipping)
> I am MUCH better at duplicating and redesigning
> circuits when I have one to work with.
> I normaly use a timer relay (delay off) to keep my
> "robots" from refireing. But it costs $20 to $30
>
> jerry

I might be able to help you out. What kind of circuit are you looking
for and what does it need to control? I possibly could design and put
together a circuit board that you could use as a master. Then I could
send you some blank boards so that you could get parts and solder them
on like they are on the master. I would need to know exactly what type
of circuit you are needing though. They would definitely cost less
than the delay off relays you are using, but the trade off is the time
it would take you to make these. If you've got the spare time, then get
back with me on what your looking to do.

Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 15:55:19 -0500
From:
milwiron@btprod.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


At 11:40 AM 5/28/97 -0700, you wrote:
>> Holey Schmoley Jerry, go to Radio Shack and get the booklets by Forrest Mims
>> on 555 Timer Circuits and Basic Semiconductor Circuits. 555 timers with
>> relays and capacitor & resistor timers with relays are so simple even I can
>> build them.
>> Denny
>
>Denny,
> Mike has been dying to try to run our tricks by computer. So if I go to
>Radio Hell and get these books it would be a good start for him? He has
>a bunch of older computers around and he is saving them for just this
>purpose. What little parts should I purchase so he can start playing?
>thanks for the help
>Kathy
>the new kid on the crpyt
>mmarcrum@ix.netcom.com
>

Hey Kathy,
 No, these books won't help. Do a search on the web for a company called
Home Automation. They have 2-way X-10 programs and modules that will be a
good starting point.

 I think I'm one of the few left that doesn't like centralized control for a
haunt. I'd rather have each display run independent of each other and not
from one computer. Independent control is easy to trouble shoot, easier to
fix and one problem doesn't knock down your whole haunt. You can still have
one display interact with another one but you don't need a central computer
to do it.
 I do think a central computer checking for shut downs, break downs and
general trouble in a large haunt is very useful.
Denny


Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 16:14:07 -0500
From:
Dan.Oelke@rdxsunhost.aud.alcatel.com (Daniel R. Oelke)
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


For those people interested in playing with 555's - they can
do great things and aren't really that hard to play with if
you aren't afraid of a little solder. (And I'm not very
good at soldering or wire-wrapping or any of that, but I
can handle it)

I'ld suggest getting the 555 book from Radio Scrap - it is:
 " 555 Timer IC Circuits (RadioShack Cat. No. 276-5010) "


Here are some web sites:

Very good - 
http://www.totalweb.co.uk/lizard1/555/

Ok - but more advanced -
http://ece-www.colorado.edu/~ecen4618/lab1/lab1.html


Happy hardware hacking ;-)

Dan
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dan Oelke - droelke@aud.alcatel.com Alcatel Telecom, Richardson, TX

"Why are they sad and glad and bad? I do not know. Go ask your dad."
- One Fish Two Fish Red Fish Blue Fish

Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 08:29:21 +0000
From:
CTMartin
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
>....I am MUCH better at duplicating and redesigning
> circuits when I have one to work with.

Check out the chatlist archive! There is a 555-timer circuit with
relays! It costs about $10-15 to build. :-)
Cliff


Subject:
555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 06:38:40 -0700
From:
htraver@dreamsys.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


Jerry, there are 555 time books at radio shack, get one with it. It has
scores of circuits, from those that keep on firing to one shot delays
(trigger then delay like the ECT). Whole bunch of ideas it will show ya
in there :)

Harry

[ Sent From: Dreamscape Systems - dreamsys.com ]
[ Location: Van Nuys, CA - (818) 781-7529 ]


Subject:
POOR MANS PIR CONTROL
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 05:08:21 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-05-28 01:44:49 EDT, you write:

<<
 I am using two color organs at least in my displays this year, and that
 could well increase. At least one or more motor speed controllers also.
 Am I destined to somehow answer the door as the angel of Death at the
 same time as I am operating six or eight scary goodies? Remember, I will
 largely be running this show myself and need as much automation as
 possible.
 
 Wil
>>


jerry says:

Wil

 refabracate the PIR used for turning on flood lights.
It will send 120v to your device. When in the
TEST option, this will disable the photo eye to be used in
daytime and will only turn on the 120v for a minute or a few
seconds depending on the brand.

This is the simple setup! More circuitry can be used for more
control. I use Delay off timer relay combination for more control.
The PIR can be tripped over and over but will not reset until the
person tripping the pir has left it alone for a minute
(or how ever you set the timer relay)

I use a Delay ON relay that activates a second relay that cuts the
power to my effect. The delay ON will reset after power is
cut off from the device. (the PIR flood light stops sending power...)
This "reset after power is removed" can only be done with
delay ON not with DELAY OFF. I don’t know why. Maybe my limited
catalogs on relays...

Yours ghouly Jerry -


@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@
 
^v^ Spooky F/X Productions ^v^
(Creative, Not expensive solutions in special effects.)
(No one ever got anywhere by being NORMAL!)

 Web page: http://members.aol.com/Spookyfx/index.html

@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@ --'---,--',---@



Subject:
Re: POOR MANS PIR CONTROL
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 07:35:11 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


> jerry says:
>
> Wil
>
> refabracate the PIR used for turning on flood lights.......
 
> Yours ghouly Jerry -
 
 Thank you for the kind vote of confidence Jerry, but I don't know what
a PIR is, much less how to refabricate a motion sensor. I have the
ability to put a new end on the extension cord...... What I am looking
for is someone that is selling timers that limit the duration of closed
cicuit going to a motorized or air operated event. I can hook up flood
light sensors to all of these if I can limit their duration and then
stay off for a pre-determined number of seconds before the next fire.
But to learn how to make them or re-fabricate an electronic assembly is
for someone who does this for a living or is a gear head. I am a wood
worker! (I thought I was a hero when I hooked up a few wires to make the
FG's eyes blink!) 

 Perhaps I am asking for something that isn't actually sold in the
public domain? If so, perhaps I can bribe one of our own gear-heads to
make me one. What Don is talking about sounds really expensive and if
I'm remembering right, I think he has expressed disappointment in
planting this much money into his setup. It may be that I will have to
do the same if I am to effect as much automation as I am desiring.
Perhaps the ECT will have to be used one per event after all?

Also, am I abandoning the X-10 too quickly due to the unkind words
offered by one of the response postors last night? (E mail post is on
the computer at home at the moment. ;~/ )

Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X


Subject:
Re: POOR MANS PIR CONTROL
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 14:34:57 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


Jerry,

I'm not sure how you accomplish event ON time.
I think you explain only how an OFF
or disable time was done via a time
delay relay plus an auxiliary relay?

In other words, after a person is sensed by the PIR,
120 volt power is turned ON, but how do you turn it
OFF in a specified length of time?

Examples:
A) an air cylinder solenoid valve for only 1 or 2 seconds is
to be operated.
B) a motorized dummy for 15 seconds is to be
operated.

Wouldn't two(2) time delay relays be
needed to (both) prevent retriggering, AND
control the ON event time?

Jim
============================== Ref ===================
At 05:08 AM 5/28/97 -0400, Jerry wrote:
>Wil
>
> refabracate the PIR used for turning on flood lights.
>It will send 120v to your device. When in the
>TEST option, this will disable the photo eye to be used in
>daytime and will only turn on the 120v for a minute or a few
>seconds depending on the brand.
>
>This is the simple setup! More circuitry can be used for more
>control. I use Delay off timer relay combination for more control.
>The PIR can be tripped over and over but will not reset until the
>person tripping the pir has left it alone for a minute
>(or how ever you set the timer relay)
>
>I use a Delay ON relay that activates a second relay that cuts the
>power to my effect. The delay ON will reset after power is
>cut off from the device. (the PIR flood light stops sending power...)
>This "reset after power is removed" can only be done with
>delay ON not with DELAY OFF. I don’t know why. Maybe my limited
>catalogs on relays...
===============================
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net)

Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


Subject:
Re: POOR MANS PIR CONTROL
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 15:24:33 -0500 (CDT)
From:
jpmc@ix.netcom.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


On 05/28/97 07:35:11 you wrote:
>
>> jerry says:
>>
>> Wil
>>
>> refabracate the PIR used for turning on flood lights.......
>
>> Yours ghouly Jerry -
>
> Thank you for the kind vote of confidence Jerry, but I don't know what
>a PIR is, much less how to refabricate a motion sensor. I have the
>ability to put a new end on the extension cord...... What I am looking
>for is someone that is selling timers that limit the duration of closed
>cicuit going to a motorized or air operated event. I can hook up flood
>light sensors to all of these if I can limit their duration and then
>stay off for a pre-determined number of seconds before the next fire.
>But to learn how to make them or re-fabricate an electronic assembly is
>for someone who does this for a living or is a gear head. I am a wood
>worker! (I thought I was a hero when I hooked up a few wires to make the
>FG's eyes blink!) 
>
> Perhaps I am asking for something that isn't actually sold in the
>public domain? If so, perhaps I can bribe one of our own gear-heads to
>make me one. What Don is talking about sounds really expensive and if
>I'm remembering right, I think he has expressed disappointment in
>planting this much money into his setup. It may be that I will have to
>do the same if I am to effect as much automation as I am desiring.
>Perhaps the ECT will have to be used one per event after all?
>
>Also, am I abandoning the X-10 too quickly due to the unkind words
>offered by one of the response postors last night? (E mail post is on
>the computer at home at the moment. ;~/ )
>
>Wil
>X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
> Rest In Pieces
> Death Lord
>'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
>http://www.creepcrafters.com
>X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
>
>
Hey, Folks!
Sounds like a workshop is in order! I would love to be able to automate my
haunt almost totally, but with my BASIC electronic skills it is beyond me. I
can solder, I've hooked up some relays and I've even rewired some of those
flash units from American Science & Surplus. Maybe we can get someone to get
some fairly simple circuits together and share them with those who'd like to
learn. Any comments?
John
Hayweird, CA


Subject:
Re: POOR MANS PIR CONTROL
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 20:00:39 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-05-28 17:15:37 EDT, you write:

<< Also, am I abandoning the X-10 too quickly due to the unkind words
 offered by one of the response postors last night? (E mail post is on
 the computer at home at the moment. ;~/ )
>>

I think a programer could make the x-10 do backflips,
but I did not like what I learned about them as well.
The things were just not desighed to do what we want
them to do!

Maybe someday someone will redsighn it and sell it for our use?

I am talking to some of our LIST circuit building "techs"
about building what you and I want.
If thay do not want to go into the timer "biz" I may
make a few for you while I make some for me!

I will let you know!

Subject:
Re: POOR MANS PIR CONTROL
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 10:09:41 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


At 01:34 AM 5/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
> I use the "test" setting for a minute of ON time.

Jerry,

I think I understand that you set your On-Dly
timer rly for the device ON time = 0.5 to 30 sec?
When the PIR senses a person, it turns ON and
activates this On-Dly rly for AT LEAST one minute.

The timer rly activates the scare device (the interface rly not
mentioned in this discussion) and when it times out, it keeps the device
from being retriggered as long as it remains powered by the PIR.

Yes, I agree it's a very clever use of the floodlight PIR controller!

However, in this arrangement there is no adjusting OFF time.

With an ON time of 1.0 seconds, say for an "air ram"
operated event, the system must wait a minimum of 59 seconds
to reset...even if the viewer moves on after 30 seconds, the system
can not be ready to refire until after another 29 seconds.

In my private haunt, during the busiest hours, I found that an
ECT OFF time of 12 to 15 seconds is plenty to have kids move on,
and if it's much more than that, you have to actually hold up the traffic
flow.

Has your system worked well during high traffic hours? I'm especially
curious if there's several of these PIR controllers "back to back" in your
loop?

Jim


Subject:
Re: PC/relay control card
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 09:39:45 -0700 (PDT)
From:
Don Bertino
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


On Wed, 28 May 1997 Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 97-05-28 01:23:23 EDT, you write:
> This card then can drive PCL daughter boards or your own that carry relays.
> 
> Easy as cake^H^H^H^Hpie... :)
>
> jerry asks:
> Dose it come with software?
> Do you need to know programming to use it?

Hi Jerry,

but you'd want to write your own (super easy)
They are in sets of 8 ports (Hex) so to program you would:

port Add number
1 = 1
2 = 2
3 = 4
4 = 8
5 = 16
6 = 32
7 = 64
8 = 128

So to turn on port 2, 4 and 7, you add 2+8+64=74. You then send that to
the digital board thru the outp command in basic or C or whatever. Intervals
and patterns are up to you.

I built a program to help me program my house for xmas. I built my house with
all the strings and decorations that I can control on it on the computer. So
when the lights go on the computer screen, they go on outside on the house.
Internvals and patterns are set one "frame" at a time.

If anyone is interested, I'd be more than happy to give a copy of it to anyone
who wants it. Please email me directly with the request, not the list.

don
bertino@netcom.com

Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Wed, 28 May 1997 19:32:09 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-05-28 12:34:43 EDT, you write:

<<
 I might be able to help you out. What kind of circuit are you looking
 for and what does it need to control? I possibly could design and put
 together a circuit board that you could use as a master. Then I could
 send you some blank boards so that you could get parts and solder them
 on like they are on the master. I would need to know exactly what type
 of circuit you are needing though. They would definitely cost less
 than the delay off relays you are using, but the trade off is the time
 it would take you to make these. If you've got the spare time, then get
 back with me on what your looking to do.
 
 
Hi
Thanks you! You will be saving me much frustration.
I was trained as a circuit board designer (arrangement of the board
not the engineering of the circuit) so I know a little (very little)
about putting a board together. I have soldered kits and redesigned
simple circuits such as "night lights" to be used as light Detector
relays! I would actually like a variety of options. I have the luck that you
are a HH enthuse and thus know the kinds of control I may need.
Could you make suggestions?

My basic need is a timing circuit that will accept power (120vac) channel
it through to a 120vac device, than, after a 0.5 to 30 second delay
(adjustable by a pot?) it would cut the power to the device. Then
it would stay off until the power that is feeding it was shut of!

Once the power is reapplied to the control circuit, it would repeat
the steps I just described. This is what I do with the delayed relay
ON timers and a second relay. The power from a flood light
PIR channels through the "second" relay and when the delay ON
relay kicks in it activates the second relay (normally on) to shut
off the power to the spooky device..

Did this make any sense?
How much are we talking about (not including the shipping)

I know the parts will cost less than your time.
( I would pay for both and shipping of coarse)

This will help me a great deal I hate paying $20
for a simple timer....
especially when I need dozens of them.

thanks
jerry


Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 11:14:44 -0700
From:
Carl Cowley
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:

> My basic need is a timing circuit that will accept power (120vac) channel
> it through to a 120vac device, than, after a 0.5 to 30 second delay
> (adjustable by a pot?) it would cut the power to the device. Then
> it would stay off until the power that is feeding it was shut of!
> Once the power is reapplied to the control circuit, it would repeat
> the steps I just described.

Just to be sure, you want it to be triggered on for a set amount of time
(0.5 to 30 seconds and not be retriggerable during that time) and then
turn off. Now, do you want to have to manually reset the circuit or
have it stay off for a certain amount of time and have it automatically
reset itself?
 
> How much are we talking about (not including the shipping)
>
> I know the parts will cost less than your time.
> ( I would pay for both and shipping of coarse)
>
> This will help me a great deal I hate paying $20
> for a simple timer....
> especially when I need dozens of them.

For the circuit I have in mind (I have not tested it yet) that would
turn on the device when triggered, stay on (from .5 sec to 5 min), then
shut off and stay off (from .5 sec to 5 min) and then be ready to
trigger again,

Circuit boards would run about .10 each
If you bought parts at Radio Shack:
556 timer 1.59
Zener Diode .99/2
2 Diodes .69/2
Caps .79*2, .99, .99
Relay 6.99 (it would cost less to use a triac)
Pot 1.49

Total for Radio Shack $16.41 (you could easily cut this price in half by
doing mail order, again a triac would also lower the cost).
Misc.
Power cord and outlet (use what ever you were using before).

My time would not amount to much since your willing to solder your own
boards and if you have access to a drill press and are willing to drill
your own boards. If not it would take me 3-5 min. a board to drill @
$20/hr.

This circuit runs off an AC outlet, it doesn't need a battery or other
power supply.


Subject:
Re: 555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi Vs. Hand-work
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 11:25:32 -0700
From:
Carl Cowley
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6


wil@wilschock.com wrote:

> Each event stands alone. Thus far, the idea is to trigger 120V AC. In
> general my events are routed to power strips so everything comes on at
> once to that single event when power is triggered to the thing. The
> Floating Ghost has a gear motor, a blacklight and tape player
> plugged into the power strip. The Trash Can Trauma has a water pump

> (120V) solenoid and a strobe light plugged to a power strip. The Pop Up
> Ghosts will be water pump solenoids (one per ghost). The blast of air to
> the face will once again be solenoid. Then there is the rotting corpse
> in the coffin that I would like to have jump up bending at the waist
> that will have at least a solenoid and perhaps a tape player also. The
> fogger I'm going to run by hand. The floating pumpkin and candleabra
> (sp?)will be permantantly on I think, but if not, that will be a gear
> motor and 120V to both items for light bulbs. There will be lights that
> will be triggered by sensors, but those can be adjusted to go out after
> a short time naturally.
>

I just sent the following info to SpookyFX and I think the same thing
will work for what you are trying to do. If not correct me, as my brain
is getting scrambled trying to keep up with the different topics on the
list.

For the circuit I have in mind (I have not tested it yet) that would
turn on the device when triggered, stay on (from .5 sec to 5 min), then
shut off and stay off (from .5 sec to 5 min) and then be ready to
trigger again,

Circuit boards would run about .10 each
If you bought parts at Radio Shack:
556 timer 1.59
Zener Diode .99/2
2 Diodes .69/2
Caps .79*2, .99, .99
Relay 6.99 (it would cost less to use a triac, about $1)
Pot 1.49

Total for Radio Shack $16.41 (you could easily cut this price in half by
doing mail order, again a triac would also lower the cost).
Misc.
Power cord and outlet (use what ever you were using before).

My time would not amount to much since your willing to solder your own
boards and if you have access to a drill press and are willing to drill
your own boards. If not it would take me 3-5 min. a board to drill @
$20/hr.

This circuit runs off an AC outlet, it doesn't need a battery or other
power supply.

Subject:
Re: 555 request
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 13:08:24 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-05-29 08:42:51 EDT, you write:
>
> <<
> Check out the chatlist archive! There is a 555-timer circuit with
> relays! It costs about $10-15 to build. :-)
> Cliff
> >>
>
> I have not tried it for a few weeks.
> But I was having a problem down
> loading the archives.
> My system would crash half
> way through the download!
> I could not read the archives...
> But I will give it one more go.....
>
> jerry


Jerry, just go direct to the picture with this link;
http://members.aol.com/phanmech/555timer.gif
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X

Subject:
Automation
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 18:12:34 -0500
From:
Derek Schwab
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
Organization:
The Silverball Room
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
 References:
1


I have a question about using a cassette deck to sync sound with
lighting/animation. I understand that you can use one channel for the
sound and the other for control, but how can I use this to control
several different effects? I'm assuming I would have to use different
tones and a device to decode them. Can someone please help me with this?
--

Derek Schwab

The Silverball Room                                                    



silverball@geocities.com

http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/3708/index.html



Halloween Picture Hosting

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/3708/pichosts.htm              

Subject:
Re: X-10, my 2c (long) was:555 Vs. X-10 Vs. Midi
Date:
Thu, 29 May 1997 12:20:56 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1 , 2


> Whew! its time to stop babbling ;)
> Cliff

Thanks Cliff. I appreciate your input as I'm sure others do too. This is
all adding up to a funtional equasion for my timing system.

--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X



Subject:
Re: "Take pause and notice..."
Date:
Sat, 07 Jun 1997 20:52:18 -0400
From:
Jim Kadel
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


At 06:00 PM 6/7/97 -0500, you wrote:
>As to Carl's reply all I can say is DUH! (Slap to the forehead!!). It's
>a mechanical switch, your absolutely right. But before I totally give
>up on this, and if you excuse my ignorance, I have one more question.
>I have at least one boom box with a remote, so I assume there is at
>least some electronic means of triggering a "pause". Is there anyway
>to "tap" into the wiring this way?

JD,

Carl's was first to call attention to it but I'd clarify that the way this is
accomplished is to purchase a subminature plug (Radio-Shack/shark/show etc)
that fits your remote boom box jack.

Next solder the bared ends of two insulated wires to this plug, as its design calls for. The other end of
these wires should be stripped of insulation for about an inch. Now IF the plug end is inserted the boom
box and the control is in "play" the box remains in "pause" until these two wires touch:
i.e. wires touch = PLAY, wires no touch = PAUSE
connect a switch (fridge door or otherwise) or a sensor switch (John's idea) to
the two wires and you've got it.

Jim



^^^^^^^^^^^
Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net)

Haunt Master Products, Inc
http://members.aol.com/hmpi
^^^^^^^^^^^

Subject:
Re: "Take pause and notice..."
Date:
Sat, 7 Jun 1997 23:08:47 -0400
From:
Silvia
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


>I was pondering this problem. Got hungry. Went to the fridge. Opened the
>door. And a "LIGHT" came on......
>
>Heres my problem. I want to have a scream instantly sound off as soon as
>a person opens a door. Now my question is will this set up work? Using
>a contact switch (the refridgerator door/light type), could I wire the
>"pause" botton on a boom box to it, such that it would normally be "on"
>(pause mode) until someone opened the door (pause off-play on)? If I
>used a continuos looped tape of screams, and this works, it might be
>an easy way to produce an automated sound effect. Then again I probably
>don't know what the heck I'm talking about... ;)
>
I did this effect at a Halloween party a few years ago. Are you talking
about screams from the fridge.
This is easy. get one of those sockets with a plug on it that screws into a
socket. (?) Screw this into your fridges light and plug in a tape player
with loop of sounds. I had screams and also a witchy voice saying
something.
This is also easy to do on any door. I did this in the bathroom. I had two
switches on the door. One was in the on position when the door was open and
the other in the off position when the door was open.
When someone entered the bathroom the lighting was very normal and
inviting. When they closed the door the lights would change to red and
strange music would play. Everyone was in the bathroom that night.

Christopher Silvia
isolated looney

Subject:
Re: X-10 Software
Date:
Mon, 9 Jun 1997 02:39:14 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-06-09 01:52:44 EDT, you write:

<<
 What's an X-10?
 What would it run on?
 How many things could it control?
 
 If I only knew just a little more, I'm sure I could get interested in a big
way.
 
 SK(I)P
>>
hhhhhhmmmmm...
I see now how redundant this can be for those on the list.
But what is the alternative to going through the info all over again
for each new list member?

1. Each member should read the archives before asking such
questions?

This is not as easy as it sounds! I am VERY interested in all
The info I can get and I have had a hard time getting it from the
archives!
2. Let the info pass from one new member to the other?
This could work on off list basses.
I would suggest you go visit wil page. He has been doing a great job
at organizing the information form the list.

Wil have you any categories on the X-10 device?

jerry

Subject:
X-10 made EZ
Date:
Mon, 9 Jun 1997 04:51:22 -0400 (EDT)
From:
Spookyfx@aol.com
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


In a message dated 97-06-09 03:09:57 EDT, you write:

<< As soon as I make my alpha tomorrow (optimistic, aren't I?), I'll be
 > able to spend more time on this thing. Right now I'm defining the
 > specs, and I'll send then to you when I finish them. Suggestions for
 > functionality are cheerfully received. :-D See?
>>

First thing I can think of is the a windows interface?
It would be great to set up simple routines with a few mouse
clicks. I Need multiple input, logic response and as near
simultaneous tripping of multiple units as possible.
If 20 units could be tripped within 1/2 a second it would be
as good as simultaneous activation. I don’t think
more tan one input device can be used can it?
For instance I would have 20 PIR or ground mats
that would trip at simultaneous of random times.
The input pules would be more than a second so
if the program could read 20 different triggers
per second and respond by activating
20 different relays (x10 ) units per second
it would be GREAT!
Each relay and each trigger would have to have
independent loops of time on time off and
multiple time on and time off!

I visualize a game like engine that would produce
multiple (and varied duration cycles) actions
in response to multiple event input triggering occurrences!
I have always thought that the same way a computer
game interacts with several players the computer
could do the same for a haunted house!

I will give you more input as I think of it!

but defiantly use a windows interface with cut and paste
information form text editors and or screen dials and knobs
for setting time cycles and picking units to trip!
Maybe a floor plan view of the house. This might involve
a simple grid that a dxf or gif drawing of the house could be
overlay on to!

jerry


Subject:
Re: X-10 Software
Date:
Mon, 09 Jun 1997 13:27:14 -0700
From:
"wil@wilschock.com"
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com
References:
1


Spookyfx@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-06-09 01:52:44 EDT, you write:
>
> <<
> What's an X-10?
> What would it run on?
> How many things could it control?
>
> If I only knew just a little more, I'm sure I could get interested in a big
> way.
>
> SK(I)P
> >>
> hhhhhhmmmmm...
> I see now how redundant this can be for those on the list.
> But what is the alternative to going through the info all over again
> for each new list member?
>
> 1. Each member should read the archives before asking such
> questions?
>
> This is not as easy as it sounds! I am VERY interested in all
> The info I can get and I have had a hard time getting it from the
> archives!
> 2. Let the info pass from one new member to the other?
> This could work on off list basses.
> I would suggest you go visit wil page. He has been doing a great job
> at organizing the information form the list.
>
> Wil have you any categories on the X-10 device?
>
> jerry


Yes. These are covered under "Automating the Monster". (
http://www.silcom.com/~crafters/automatn.htm ) as far as the X-10 is
concerned I have looked into this enough to have decided they are simply
not reliable enough or instant enough to drop my time and money on. I
have decided to go to individual ECTs by

Jim Kadel (jimk@rica.net)

Haunt Master Products, Inc (<---FREE PLUG WORTH $$ REWARDS)
http://members.aol.com/hmpi

These are stand-alone controllers that will offer me the flexibility
needed to be completely automated in my special effects. I am relying on
my own self and family for the automation, and don't want to spend all
night hitting thousands of combinations of switches on a panel to scare
the TOTs. I want to scare them all while I am in costume while the
events add to that.

There has been HUGE banter back and forth over the issue of controlling
the events by hand or by automation and it really comes down to personal
desire. Do you want to scare the person perfectly EVERY time, or do you
want to scare them while you also have your freedom? (The ONLY perfect
way to execute the perfect scare 100% of the time is by hand) I chose
the freedom and the more random scare. Each event will run through a
matt-switch that trips the timer on the ECT (Event Control Timer) which
in turn flips on the event instantly. Once the event is activated it
will go through a pre-set cycle of operation: The event will; (1)
Operate between 1 second and 60 seconds. (2) reset itself for the next
trigger. (3) Not be triggered for the duration of between about 10
seconds and 5 minutes.

The ECT will allow me to adjust each event to run as long as I want and
not run again for as long as I want, and then recycle all over again
without the worry of; Fog causing the event to trigger, Light not
allowing the event to trigger, Light accidently triggering the event, A
broken circuit from bodies in the way keeping the event permanently on,
The event to operate continously as long as the matt/LED eye/motion
sensor is stuck on trigger. Also hopefully eliminated will be the X-10
circuit's; undeterminable-varying time delay from allowing the victim to
trip the event and then mosey on to the next without the event even
coming on or pausing untill the victim's back is turned to the event
entirely. Also the X-10's tendancy to "walk" on itself by becoming
confused between two or more frequency signals being sent to the
computer at the same general moment. And, since the ECT works hard-wired
(not through radio frequency waves) the
lost/garbled/skewed-by-running-motors-or-fluorescent-lights radio signal
won't effect the performance of each event whether it has sound, lights,
motors, or any other electronic or electrical components in line.

Since I have not test-run the ECT, I am telling you what is understood
about these at this time. This is a new species of 555 timer contoller
that Jim is working on for release in the near future. For more info on
this check out my website as mentioned, and/or mail Jim directly.
      
--
Wil
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X
Rest In Pieces
Death Lord
'97 chatlist Topic Archives;
http://www.creepcrafters.com
X+X+X+X+X+X+X+X




Subject:
Re: "Take pause and notice..."
Date:
Mon, 9 Jun 1997 14:11:04 -0700 (PDT)
From:
Don Bertino
Reply-To:
chatlist@netcom.com
To:
chatlist@netcom.com


On Sat, 7 Jun 1997, John Dolan wrote:
> On Sat, 7 Jun 1997, Jim Kadel wrote:
> 
> > i.e. wires touch = PLAY, wires no touch = PAUSE
> > connect a switch (fridge door or otherwise) or a sensor switch (John's idea)
> > to the two wires and you've got it.
>
> Thanks Jim! I think even I can handle this. Heck even if it doesn't work
> I figure it will only cost me some pocket change and a few minutes work.
> I'll let you know how it turns out. :)

To avoid any lags with the tape starting again, have the tape always going and
have the switch on the speaker side of things. I think this would stop all the
"bbbbbbbbbbBOOOO!" sluring that I hate.. as the tape gets up to speed. :)

don
bertino@netcom.com